Inspiring moments from the shows in Paris

Loewe: look for ideas from surrealists

With each season, Jonathan Anderson builds strong links between fashion and art. In the autumn-winter 2022 collection, the designer’s appeal to surrealist artists is obvious. Fur skirts and capes, which look like the clothes of primitive people, refer to the works of Meret Oppenheim, who decorated household items with fur. Latex dresses are for sculptures by Linda Benglis. Well, at the sight of tops in the shape of lips, the famous sofa of Salvador Dali is recalled. 

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Saint Laurent: Faux fur can look as luxurious as real

Last year, the Saint Laurent brand refused to use natural fur. The voluminous fur coats and fur bombers in Anthony Vaccarello’s new collection are made of artificial material, surprisingly similar to real fur. This is how very French and very Saint Laurent elegance should look in 2022. 

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Balenciaga: Tell personal stories

The Balenciaga show was the most emotional show in Paris. Models paraded under artificial snowfall in stretched black robes, hoodies with hoods pulled over their eyes and in torn dresses. The stilettos fell into the snow, making the gait uncertain, and there were bags in the form of garbage bags in their hands. Recent events in the world involuntarily evoked associations with refugees — this is what Demna tried to convey. In the notes to the show, the designer shared a personal story: during the Georgian-Abkhaz conflict, his family also fled the country, and now the pain of the past trauma is echoing in him. «I have become a refugee forever. Forever, because it stays in you. Fear, despair, the realization that you are not expected anywhere.»

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The Row: Seek inspiration from those you admire

The Olsen sisters have been caught quoting from the archives of Margela and Yoji Yamamoto more than once — they can hardly be accused of plagiarism, rather in great admiration for geniuses. So in the new collection, Mary-Kate and Ashley turn to the works of their favorite designers: there are shirts with long, knee-length sleeves, coats worn backwards, plaid dresses, turtlenecks to the floor. The Row’s clothes lack glamorous smoothness and, like Yamamoto’s, convey melancholic beauty.

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Miu Miu: don’t be afraid of repetitions

The blockbuster of the previous Miu Miu collection was a short skirt at a low waist — the spring-summer season has not yet begun, and the skirt has already flooded magazine shoots, instagrams and telegrams. In the wake of the success of this piece, Miuccia Prada includes it in the new collection. The micro-skirt 2.0 looks more sporty thanks to the red and blue stripes, like on a sports uniform. Plus, contrasting satin underwear peeks out from under it. Who said repetition is boring?

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Acne Studios: Fix your favorite things

The Swedish brand in the new season raises the topic of repairing things. Designer Jonny Johansson worked with denim, knitwear and leather — things made of this material were specially torn, holes were put and spoiled, and then repaired, reassembled by scraps, repainted and decorated with holes with Swarovski crystals. This whole process was necessary in order to show the grace and beauty of the repaired things — after all, holes, patches and other «scars» make our clothes truly native.

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Galkina Alyona

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